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Jean-Marc
Gorce
XOX Truffles, a small one-man chocolate truffle shop in San Francisco's
North Beach, was named one of the top ten chocolate-makers in the
United States by prestigious Chocolatier Magazine. Chocolate
maker Jean-Marc Gorce is understandably proud of the honor. It all
started when Jean-Marc, former chef de cuisine at the acclaimed
restaurant Fringale and at the Westin St. Francis, and his wife
Casimira opened their small shop at 754 Columbus Avenue on Columbus
Day, 1998. Jean-Marc says he doesn't know if he was born to be a
chocolatier, but he was "always stealing the chocolate in the
drawer of the kitchen" as a child.
The truffles here are a study in simplicity and an
international adventure. The chocolate is grown on on the Ivory
Coast of Africa, processed in France and shipped to the United States.
Boiling cream is poured over chocolate and flavoring, the mixture
is mixed and cooled, shaped into irregular shapes that look like
giant raisins, then rolled in cocoa powder or other coatings. Voila!
Chocolate heaven, tiny bite-sized truffles with melt-in-your mouth
fillings.
Did you ever wonder where truffles got their name?
It's because the traditional truffle's irregular shape resembles
the aromatic fungus prized by French chefs. Jean-Marc makes 27 flavors
of these irregular-shaped chocolates, including two with white chocolate
and six made with soy milk, a special treat for vegans who can't
often eat candies because most are made with milk or milk products.
There's a white truffle named for Casimira and her current favorite
(and the shop's most popular truffle), caramel.
In the tradition of French shopkeepers, Jean-Marc
waves to everyone who passes his shop regularly, even if they never
stop in. "They always say hello and that's what matters to
me." He says women are more expressive than men about his chocolates
and his is genuinely pleased every time someone exclaims "ohmigod!"
when they taste one, a frequent occurrence. He likes North Beach
for its European feel and he gets an opportunity to speak French
with at least one of his customers almost every day.
When you are in North Beach, stop by to visit with
Jean-Marc. Sample a free truffle with a cup of coffee from the famous
Graffeo Coffee company across the street, or buy some to take home.
The shop is a short walk up Columbus from Ghirardelli Square, or
down Columbus from the main part of North Beach, or get off the
cable car where it crosses Columbus and walk uphill about a half
block.
If you get hooked (which you may), or want to taste
but can't visit, you can order their truffles online. You can also buy them at Primo
Chocolate on Fourth Street in Berkeley. The truffles will keep 2-3
months in the refrigerator, but don't worry - they'll be eaten long
before they have a chance to spoil!
Images
(c) 2001 by Betsy Malloy. All rights reserved.
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